196The overlook view is a revelation: Haifa’s German Colony, it’s busy downtown and expanding port in the foreground. In the middle distance dozens of container ships sit, anchored in the bay awaiting to import and export goods. And in the distance, the hills of Galilee sloping down to the Mediterranean Sea at Rosh Hanikra, the border with Lebanon, and on a clear day, the snow-capped mountains of Lebanon and Mount Hermon, 105 kilometers to the northeast.

The gardens below you are a marvel as well, 18 levels of lavish manicured grass, plants, trees and flowers. The centerpiece of Haifa and object of pilgrimage for the Bahai faithful, the gardens contain a golden domed mausoleum, the Shrine of the Bab, the second holiest place on Earth for the Bahai. Tourists are allowed into the upper two levels of the garden, and there are entrances midway down the slope and at the bottom of the hill, at the top of the German Colony.